• ARCHAELOGICAL AREA OF THE AGORA: Temple of
Hephaistos (in the past known as the Thiseio): The
highest point close to the Agora, on the site known
in antiquity as Agoraios Kolonos, is dominated by
the best preserved temple of classical antiquity,
the temple of Hephaestus. Here the god of fire and
iron was worshipped together with the city's patron
goddess, Athena, as the divine guardians of the arts
and crafts, more particularly however of
metalworkers and potters. It is interesting that
there have been metalworking shops close to the
temple from antiquity until our own days. This
temple is the first work of the great building
program proposed by Pericles. Its construction began
before that of the Parthenon which explains why its
exterior is stylistically less developed but
construction was interrupted and completed after the
conclusion of all work on the Parthenon. Its
architects' name is unknown but he was the same man
as was responsible for three other important temples
of the same period: that of Poseidon at Sounion;
that of Nemesis at Rhamnous; and that of Ares at
Acharnai, which last was removed in the first
century BC to the area of the Agora. These four
impressive peripteral temples bear close
similarities among themselves and have a number of
common features, with the Parthenon.
The temple was divided into a pronaos, cella and
opisthonaos; It has 6 columns on its short and 13
columns on its long sides. The central cella may
possibly have been divided by two - story
colonnades, in this respect copying the Parthenon.
In this area worship was offered to the two statues
of Hephaestus and Athena Ergane, which had been
created by the sculptor Alkamenes. The metopes, the
frieze on the exterior of the cella, an influence
from the Parthenon, and the pediments, pictured the
Labours of two great heroes, Theseus and Heracles.
Particular stress was laid on the achievements of
Theseus, which explains later confusion regarding
the identity of the monument.
Around 600 AD the temple was converted into a church
dedicated to St. George, which under Ottoman rule
received the soubriquet "the idle", because it was
permitted to function liturgically only once a year,
on its feast day. In the era of European travelers
to Greece the temple became the spot where
Protestants were buried. It is not permitted to
enter, but within the temple one can find
gravestones, with Latin characters, of those
foreigners whom fate determined should remain for
ever buried in the soil of Attica. Among them can be distinquished the name of the English philhellene
Tweddle, whom the Athenians considered as one of
their own. On the temples' marbles has been engraved
the record of medieval Athens, particularly the
period 1000 to 1150.
(2) ANCIENT AGORA: The center of the public
life of the ancient Athenians. The word "Agora"
derives from the verb "ageiro" meaning "bring
together" that is to gather around: and by extension
"agorevo", that is to speak publicly. The word's
etymology is relevant to the multifaceted role of
the ancient Agora, where the daily life of the
ancient Athenians was played out. The Agora was the
centre of administration, of the legal process, and
indeed the nodal point of commercial and business
life. Before the classical period the Agora was in
addition the area where the Assembly of the People
gathered and simultaneously a site for theatrical
and other competitions. From the archaic period
until 267 AD when the Herules destroyed it the Agora
was also the Athenians' favorite meeting place for
their social and cultural pursuits. It was in short
the heart of Ancient Athens. (tel.: 210 3210185)
• THE ADMINISTRATIVE CENTER OF ANCIENT ATHENS
Tholos: A circular building which was the social
centre of administration under the democratic
constitution. Fifty of the councilors, called "Prytaneis"
were in charge of the administration, each for 1/10"
of the year, or 36 days. Every day the Overseer of
the Prytaneis was chosen among them by lot and he
acted as Head of State for just 24 hours. The "Prytaneis"
ate in common in the Tholos, sharing too in common
religious rites. Before such meetings they would
make sacrifice to Apollo the Protector and Artemis,
Bearer of Light, who were worshipped in the Tholos
together with lower chthonic deities considered as
protective of the public life of the city. Here too
were kept the standard weights and measures for
commercial transactions.
From this point we can follow two routes, one south
towards the ancient prison, the other north to the
Bouleuterion, or Council Building.
"Prison of Socrates": About 100 meters from
the southeast corner of the agora, amongst the ruins
of houses and workshops, a public building of stone
has been found which has been identified with the
Prison of classical times. Amongst the finds there
are 13 very small vials, perhaps those in which was
put the hemlock to be administered to anyone
condemned to death. A damaged statuette of Socrates
was also found. Taken together with the evidence
from the Platonic dialogues and from Plutarch, these
considerations argue in favor of the view that the
stone building was the ancient prison and, as such,
the spot where the great philosopher, condemned to
death on a change of corrupting the young, left his
last breath.
Bouleuterion or Council House: In the archaic
period the councilors met here in the open. At the
beginning of the 5'h century BC the Old Bouleuterion
was built and at its end the New Bouleuterion. In
the classical period of the democratic constitution
500 councillors met in the Bouleuterion, and hence
are referred to as the Council of 500. Each one of
the 10 Athenian tribes created by Cleisthenes chose
by lot 50 councilors to represent it and their term
of office lasted a year.
Metroon: A building of the Hellenistic age.
It was in the Metroon that the originals of all
decisions by the people were recorded, written on
papyrus, on hides or on wooden panels. The City took
on a special employee who was responsible for
keeping and filing these documents. In the Metroon
too were kept the records concerning citizenship,
including records of birth and death, and to this
fact we owe the survival of the word "Metroon" and
the phrase "inscribed in the Metroon" into modern
Greek. In this building where public documents were
kept, worship was offered to the Mother of the gods
Rea - Cybele, which is why the "great goddess" is
described as the guardian of the archives.
Temple of Apollo Patrons: A small temple of
the Ionic order and of the 4" century BC, dedicated
to Apollo Patrons or "Father", as father of Ion, who
in turn was the ancestor of all the Ionians and
hence also of the Athenians. Apollo Patrons was one
of the pation gods who protected the working of the
Athenian constitution and he was connected with the
Athenian phratries or brotherhoods.
Temple of Zeus Phratrios and Athena Phratria:
These adjectives derive from the root "phrates"
which means "brother", and was here used to describe
Olympian Zeus and Athena, since they were worshipped
as divine protectors of the Athenian brotherhoods of
phratries. In front of the entrance of these two
neighboring temples of the 4the century BC, that of
Apollo Patrons, and that of Zeus Phratrios and
Athina Phratia, could be found the altar on which
the members of each Athenian phratry offered common
sacrifices so as to honor their protecting deities.
Stoa of Zeus Eleftherios: Built in the 5'h
century BC as a place for Athenians to relax. It
contained fine paintings by Euphranor.
Royal Stoa: Built in the 5`h century BC but
today buried under the rail track. It was the seat
of the "Royal Archon" or "Archon Basileus" whose
powers were all religious and legal. Here were
inscriptions with all the laws of the Athenian state
since the time of Solon.
On the north side of the Agora, beyond today's
railtracks, were the Poikile Stoa and the Stoa of
the Herms. The Poikile Stoa contained superb
paintings by Polygnotos, including those which
showed scenes from the battle of Marathon. It also
gave its name to Stoic philosophy since it was here
that school's founder, Zeno from Kition in Cyprus,
taught in the fourth and third century.
Altar of the twelve gods: Built in the 6"
century BC, it was used as the starting point for
the calculation of distances.
• AGORA - CENTRAL AREA:
Temple of Ares: Probably a work of the
architect whose name is unknown but who built the
temple of Hephaestus (the Theseion) in the 5`n
century BC. Its original position was in Acharnai
(today Menidi) north of Athens, but it was
transferred to the Agora by order of the Roman
Emperor Augustus (first century BC to first century
AD). In front of the pile of the temple's ruins
stood the complex in honor of the Tyrannicides
Harmodios and Aristogeiton, who killed the tyrant
Hipparchos, an act which ultimately led to Athens'
release from the tyranny of the Peisistratids and
hence to the creation of democracy. The Athenians
venerated the tyrannicides and this area where their
statue was set up was considered a place of asylum.
Monument of the Eponymous Heroes: A long
podium of the 5'h century BC with railings on which
citizens could lean. On the podium were set statues
of the heroes of the ten tribes created by
Cleisthenes at the time of the introduction of
democracy. This monument was the central point for
giving information to citizens as public
announcements were posted here.
Altar of Zeus Agoraios: On the South side of
the Agora and dated to the 5'h century BC.
Stoas (Southern Stoa I - Southern Stoa II -
Middle Stoa): These were built from the 5'h to
the 2"' century BC. They contained shops, offices,
dining rooms for symposia and so on. Near the Middle
Stoa of the classical period were found remains of a
cobblers' shop (nails for shoes and sherds of a pot
with the name "of Simon" on it). This workshop is
attributed to the cobbler Simon, friend of Socrates,
who often visited Simon there according to Xenophon.
Odeion of Agrippa: This was built by
Augustus' general, Agrippa, in 15 BC. It had a
seating capacity of 1.000 and an entrance stoa on
two levels. The open stoa was supported by huge
statues of the Tritons and Giants, whose sculpted
bodies imitate the torso of Poseidon on the West
Pediment of the Parthenon. The Odeion suffered
serious damage in the middle of the 2"d century AD,
was at once rebuilt with alterations but destroyed
in 267 AD by the Herules. It was rebuilt as a
Govenor's palace in the 4'h century and was finally
abandoned in the 5'h.
• AGORA - EAST SIDE
Stoa of Attalos: A two - storied stoa, with
shops, of the first half of the 2"' century BC. It
was built by Attalus II, King of Pergamon, in honor
of his teacher, the Stoic philosopher Carneades, and
of the Athenians. The stoa is 116 meters long. The
columns on the lower floor are of the Doric order
whereas those on the upper floor are of the Ionic
order. It was completely restored in the 1950s by
the American School of Classical Studies which has
been excavating in the Agora since 1931. The stoa is
today a Museum for objects found in the course of
these excavations and they give a representative
picture of the workings of the democratic
constitution in Athens:
Among other objects exhibited one should note:
• A resolution in support of democracy of 337/336 BC
at a time when
Macedonian victory was putting it in question. On
the relief the figure
of Democracy crowns Athens.
• A marble lot - holder to distribute official
positions of the 3' century AD.
• A water clock (clepsydra) to measure a speaker's
time at the law courts.
• Pottery sherds of the 5" century BC with names of
prominent politicians whom their opponents wished to
see ostracized. Examples are Aristidis and
Themistocles, against whom there was clearly an
organized "sherd - writing" campaign with
insufficient takers among the people, as the unused
sherds were thrown to the bottom of a well!
• A bronze head of Nike (Victory), of 425 BC.
• A chair and night - potty for an infant of the end
of the 6`h century BC.
• A pottery jar used as a thermos of the 7'h century
BC.
The Panethenaic Way: It began inside the
entrance gate to the city at the Kerameikos, the
Pompeion, passed in front of the Stoa of Attalos and
the Eleusinion and ended at the entrance of the
Acropolis. It was the route of the Panethenaic
procession, the most important festival in honor of
Athens' patron goddess. Every four years at the
height of summer the whole Athenian people, with its
leadership and a trireme on wheels (which held the
robe of the goddess) ascended the Panethenaic Way
and proceeded to the Acropolis. It is this majestic
procession that is shown on the frieze of the
Parthenon.
The Church of the Holy Apostoles of Solakis:
One of the most beautiful and earliest of Athens'
medieval period, datable to around 1000 BC. It is a
four - columned cross-in-square church with multiple
apses, this last being an unusual feature. On the
outside wall there is a lovely pseudo - kufic
decoration in brick, drawn from the Arab world. The
church was restored by the Samuel H. Kress
Foundation of New York. Close at hand, it is
believed, were the Fountain of Nine Spouts and the
Mint.
Library of Pantainos - Late Roman Wall -
Eleusinion: On the Panethenaic Way towards the
Acropolis, at the Agora's southeastern corner, we
see traces of the new defensive wall which was
erected shortly after the destruction caused by the
Herules in 267 AD. Close to this point was the
"Temple of Eleusis within the City". This was the
Athenian branch of the great shine of Demeter and
Persephone at Eleusis. Together with the Parthenon,
the Erecthion and the Theseion it was one of the
most respected shines in Athens. Every year, the day
after the celebration of the Eleusinian Mysteries,
the Council of 500 met in this location.
As we ascend the Panethenaic Way towards the
Acropolis we find ourselves on the slopes of the
Areopagus. Before we reach the open square in front
of the peak, we meet, slightly to our right, the
Basilica of St. Dionysios the Areopagite.
(3) BASILICA OF ST. DIONYSIOS: An early
Christian basilica at the northeastern side of the
Areopagus that was totally destroyed in 1751 by an
earthquake. It was at various times Athens'
Cathedral, especially during the period of Ottoman
rule until its destruction by earthquake.
(4) AREOPAGUS: The hill is 115 meters high
and was dedicated either to Ares, the god of war, or
alternatively to the Ares, that is the Erinyes or
Furies, apotropaic goddesses of revenge, of whom one
can read in Aeschylus' "Eumenides". This was the
seat of the law court of the same name which during
the period of the aristocratic oligarchy ruled the
city. Here as the "Acts of the Apostle" tell us, the
Apostle Paul spoke publicly around 50 BC about the
Unknown God, to whom the Athenians had somewhere
dedicated an altar.
We descend from the top of the Areopagus and walk
east keeping the Acropolis on our right.
(5) MUSEUM OF PAUL AND ALEXANDRA KANELLOPOULOS:
A private collection which was donated to the Greek
state and includes antiquities and works of art from
prehistoric times until recent years. The exhibits
are mainly of pottery, of sculptures and of icons.
In particular mention should be made of the icon
"The Falling Asleep of the Mother of God", an
excellent Constantinopolitan work of the end of the
14" century, as also of a magnificent Processional
Cross of the 10" century. Also impressive is the
Fayum - style portrait of a woman of the 2"d century
AD.
The Museum is housed in the traditional house of the
Michalea family which was built in 1864.
(cnr Panos St and 12 Theorias St, tel.: 210 3212313)
(6) CHURCH OF THE TRANSFIGURATION OF THE SAVIOUR:
A small church of the usual four columned cross - in
- square type, datable to the second half of the 11
" century AD. There is a later chapel of St.
Paraskevi. It is here that temporary burial was
given to the hero of the War of Independence,
Odysseas Androutsos, after his assassination by
Gouras, one of the leaders of armed bands. (Theorias
St)
(7) OLD UNIVERSITY - MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS: It was built in its
original form before 1674 and in 1831 was bought by
the two architects Stamatis Kleanthes and Edward
Schaubert. In 1835-36 it operated as the First
Gymnasion (Secondary School) of Athens. In 1837-1841
it was host to the first Greek University. Today it
has been restored and operates as the Museum of the
University of Athens. (5 Tholou St, tel.: 210
3689500)
(8) METOHI PANAGIOU TAFOU (METOHI OF THE HOLY
SEPULCHRE): A church dedicated to the
Unmercenary Saints, doctors who healed without
receiving a fee. It was built at the beginning of
the 17" century by the Athenian priest, Demetrios
Kolokinthis. In 1760 it became the Metohi (a
dependant ecclesiastical establishment) of the Holy
Sepulchre in Jerusalem. A century later and to the
church's east was built the Exarchate (residence and
office) of the Patriarchate of Jerusalem.
(cnr Prytaniou St & 12 Erechtheiou St)
(9) CHURCH OF ST JOHN THE THEOLOGIAN:
Medieval church of the four - columned cross - in -
square type of the end of the 11" or beginning of
the 12" century. It is the only medieval church in
Athens which preserves some fragments of its
original frescoes, of the first half of the 13'
century, painted by a local workshop in Attica.
(Erotokritou St)
(10) CHURCH OF ST NICHOLAS RANGAVA:
Originally a four-columned cross - in - square
church with an elegant dome in the Athenian style
and beautiful decoration, that was built at the
beginning of the 11 " century by its founder Loukas
Rangava, perhaps over an earlier place of workshop.
It was the sole church which during the Ottoman
period kept a secret bell (forbidden under Muslim
regulations) and it is this bell that has sounded on
all the important occasions of recent Athenian
history. The bell is now kept in the main church,
which has a substantial neoclassical addition. (Prytaniou
St)
TRIPODON STREET (see Heritage Walk #1 –
February Newsletter)
ELLINIKI ETAIRIA (see Heritage Walk #1 –
February Newsletter)
LYSICRATES' MONUMENT (see Heritage Walk #1 –
February Newsletter)
(M) ACROPOLIS STATION
(Continued from
