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 Featured Destination: Cyclades - Naxos (part 10 of 22)

GEOGRAPHY Naxos, in the midst of Mykonos, Amorgos and Paros, is not only the largest island in the Cyclades but also the most fertile. 428 sq. km. in area. 148 km. of coast, 103 nautical miles from Piraeus. There are car and passenger ferry links with Piraeus, as well as Paros, los and Santorini. Regular communications with Syros, Sikinos, Amorgos, Anaphi, Pholegandros and Herakleion (Crete) (less frequent during the winter). Car ferries from Rafina link the island with Paros, Syros, Tenos and Amorgos (infrequent). There is also a local boat service operating between Mykonos, los, Santorini, Siphnos and Seriphos and even with Amorgos, Schinousa, Herakleia, Kouphonisia and Donousa. Excursions by caique to Paros are also organized. The island's capital, Naxos (Chora) has a population of 14,037. Though a mountainous island (highest peak Za, 1004 m. a.s.l., the highest summit in the Cyclades), there are extensive tracts of flat land since the mountainous massifs are concentrated in the eastern and southern part of the island, which is also the most sparsely populated. In addition to its agricultural produce, Naxos has considerable mineral, wealth (marble, granite, emery). Its green landscape, numerous sandy beaches, picturesque villages and abundance of archaeological and historic monuments attract many visitors, particularly those to whom an enjoyable vacation includes hikes and rambles. Whereas tourist facilities are good in Chora, they are somewhat rudimentary in the hinterland, as is the road network.

HISTORYY Tradition relates that Naxos was first settled by Thracians, bringing with them their cult of Dionysos. They were succeeded by Karians and Ionians. From the plethora and wealth of finds from excavations (Grotta), Naxos was evidently the centre of the Cycladic civilization (3200 -2100 BC), it was inhabited in Mycenaean times (Aplomata) and during the period of Ionian colonization (circa 1000 BC) it experienced yet another floruit, culminating in the 7th and 6th century BC. It fought against the Persians in the Persian Wars, became a member of the Athenian League and subsequently passed to the Macedonians, Egyptian Ptolemies, Rhodians and, finally, the Romans. Raids by pirates were so frequent in Byzantine times that the inhabitants withdrew to its interior for protection and built reconnaissance towers from which they repelled the attackers. In 1207 Marcos Sanudos captured the island, establishing it as seat of the Duchy of Naxos and the Archipelago. In 1537 it was laid waste by Barbarossa, from 1566-67 it belonged to Joseph Naze and, eventually, capitulated to the Turks. It was liberated along with the rest of the Cyclades.

SIGHTS-MONUMENTSS Chora, the main town, is built on the west side of the island and is one of the most beautiful Cycladic towns, including monuments from all eras. On a tiny islet at the entrance to the harbor stands a large gateway (pyle) known as "Portara", which belonged to the incomplete Archaic temple of Apollo (6th century BC), purported to be Ariadne's palace in popular tradition. In Byzantine times a three-aisled basilica was erected here, which was destroyed by Turkish invaders in 1344 and was never rebuilt. The dominant feature of Chora, with its steep streets and old houses (sometimes three-storied), is the Venetian castle, built in 1207 by Marcos Sanudos. The Catholic burghers lived inside the castle, whereas the Orthodox Greeks lived outside in Bourgos. There was also a Jewish quarter. Sections of the outer bailey of the Venetian castle are preserved, three gateways and seven towers. Within its confines there is an Ursuline convent, a Capuchin monastery, the Archaeological Museum (with important finds of the Cycladic period, sculptures and kouroi), the Byzantine and Fold Museum in a restored tower and, in the centre, the Catholic cathedral with the insignia of the Frankish families of the island above its entrance. Newarby is the nowadays ruined palace of the Sanudo family with their coat of arms. In addition to the old mansions in Chora, there are many notable Byzantine and Postbyzantine churches; the cathedral (Metropolis, 18th century), Virgin Chrysopolitissa (one of the oldest on the island), Prophet Elijah (with two important icons by the 16th century hagiographer Angelos). At Grotta: St. George (circa 1200) and close to Palatia St. Anthony of the Catholics (15th century). Excvations at Grotta have brought to light an installation from the early phase of the Cycladic civilization with a wealth of finds, as at Aplomata (where there was continuous occupation right into the Geometric period - 8th century BC and there are even finds of 4th century date). This evidence, in conjunction with finds from elsewhere on the island, indicates that Naxos was one of the centers of the Cycladic civilization. 3 km. from Chora is the monastery of St. John Chrysostom. Chora is a good base for visiting other villages on the island, seeing its lovely countryside, Venetian towers and churches. At Angidia (2 km form Chora) there are remnants of an Archaic sanctuary and the twin (Catholic and Orthodox) church of St. Artemios. The Venetian tower of Belonia at Calanado was the summer retreat of the Catholic Bishop in days gone by. Further south is the monastery of the Holy Cross, also known as Bazaios tower. This area, called Tragaia in antiquity, is one of the most fertile on the island, dotted with charming houses, churches and towers. At Chalki (Chalkeion( ther eare the important churches of the Virgin Prorothroni (10th/12th century), St. George Diasoritis (11th century), with significant wall-paintings and, to the east, the Venetian tower of the Barozzi, property of the Gratsias family. Other noteworthy churches are the Virgin Damniotissa (at Kaloxylo) and St. Nicholas at Akadimoi, where the Makropolitis tower also stands. At Moni (4 km. northeast of Chalki) stands the Byzantine church of the Virgin Drosiani (6th century), the oldest on the island. North of Chalki are the churches of St. Isidoros, the Virgin Rachidiotissa and the ruins of the Catholic monastery of St. Francis. West of Chalki are the ruins of the Venetian Ano Kastro (upper castle) (circa 1250). There are ruined Venetian towers at Potamia, as well as the church of St. Mamas (9th Century). The road from Chalki leads to the village of Filoti with its church of the Virgin (Dormition). On one of the peaks of mount Za, southwest of Filoti, is the Za cave or cave of the Bacchae, an ancient cult centre where, legend has it, Zeus was born. 7 km. east of Filoti is the village of Danakos and 4.5 km. northeast is the lovely village of Apeirathos with its markedly Venetian aspect in the architecture of the houses and the towers of the Sommaripa, Crispo and SfortzaKastri. In the local museum there is a significant collection of finds from the area, mainly of the Early Cycladic period. A short distance from the village are the churches of the Theologian (14th century), St. Kyriaki (9th century) and the Virgin (13th century).

There are equally charming villages to the southwest of Chora, with windmills and places of interest. At Glinado there is the church of St. George, while west of Tripodes is the church of St. Matthew and the ruined tower (Palaiopyrgos) of Plaka. Further south, near the coast, is Polichni, where there are traces of a prehistoric installation, as well as of a Venetian tower. The towers of Sammaripa, Della Rocca, Palaiologos and Barozzi at Sangri, the Byzantine churches of the Sts. Anargyroi, St. John on the site of the ancient sanctuary of Demeter and Persephone, St. Eleftherios, the Virgin Kaloritissa in the east and St. Nicholas in the south (10th/13th century), the Virgin Arkouliotissa and Sts. Akindynos and George all merit attention. South of Sangri is the ruined medieval Apalyros castle. Southeast is the impressive Cheimarros tower, which can be reached from Filoti. At Korfari ton Amygdalion in the gulf of Panormos, on the southeast coast, remnants of a fortified prehistoric settlement (2400-2300 BC) have been found.

In the village of Galini on the east side of the island, between Chora and Engares, is the Ypsili monastery, a fortified tower built by lakovos Kokkos in 1600. There is a preserved Venetian tower at Kourounochori, from where the road leads south to Kinidaros, where there was a temple of Artemis. North of the village, at Florio, there is a half-finished Archaic kouros (6th century BC). One reaches the northeast side of the island via the road from Apeirathos, visiting the villages of Koronos, Skado, Komiaki and Apollonas, where there is a colossal, unfinished statue of a kouros in the form of Apollo (7th century BC) "in situ" on the ground. At Kalogeros, even further south, there is a ruined medieval fortress.

The best beaches are on the west side of the island: Aghios Prokopis, Mikri Vigla, Kastraki, Alykos, Pyrgaki, Ayassos with fine golden sand. Those on the east side Apollonas, Psili Ammos and Panormos and in the north Pachela Ammos, Chilia Vrysi and Abrami, only accessible by private car or boat, are suitable for swimming and fishing. There are buses from Chora to all the beaches; the road to Panormos is unmetalled. Accommodation is available in several hotels, pensions, rented rooms and apartments. If one has a boat there are any number of small coves to discover. In the island's interior it is also possible to shoot birds and small game (northeast and southwest side) in season.

Next month: The Islands of the Cyclades - Andros, Part 11 of 22

Vintage Greek City Photos from the Cyclades Island Region - Naxos
Naxos and minor Cyclades - Travel Guide Special 50% off	Naxos - The Eternal Island DVD-ROM w/ Booklet in Greek	Road Map of Naxos Special 50% off	Discover Greece : Paros, Naxos, Kea, Milos, Kithnos DVD (NTSC/PAL)	Greek Island Naxos Tshirt D335A

 August 2011 Greek Orthodox Calendar

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