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 GEOGRAPHY.
Lesbos or Mytilene is the third largest of Greek
islands, after Crete and Euboia. It lies at the very
edge of the northeast Aegean, only 6.5 nautical miles
from the coast of Turkey. 1630 sq. km. in area, with
370km. of coastline, it is 187 nautical miles from
Piraeus and has a population of 88,601. Lesbos comprises
a separate Prefecture, also including Lemnos and Aghios
Efstratios. There are daily car and passenger ferries
from Piraeus and once a week a boat to Thessaloniki and
Kavala. There is also a link with Chios and, via the
Piraeus -Kavala route, with Samos, Ikaria, the
Dodecanese, Cyclades and Crete. Local services operate
between Lemnos, Aghios Efstratios and Kavala. In the
summertime a local craft sails to Alvali in Turkey (16
nautical miles). There are daily flights from Athens.
Although the terrain is mountainous (highest peak
Olympos, 940 m. a.s.l.) there are fertile valleys in
between and water in abundance, especially on the south
coast round the gulf of Gera. The second largest bay,
that of Kalloni, lies between the north and east parts
of the island, which are mainly of igneous rocks and
have sparse vegetation cover. Indeed, the formation of
the island is attributed to volcanic activity, since it
must originally have been joined to the coast opposite.
The numerous thermal springs and petrified forest at
Sigri are probably also due to this vulcanicity.
Lesbos casts its own magic spell on those who come here.
It is quite unlike other islands with its verdant
scenery, indented coastline with secret coves, and
monuments of all eras, little wonder visitors flock here
in thousands, each guaranteed an unforgettable stay.
Facilities for tourists are of a high standard and the
good road network enables those with their own transport
to drive around easily. The capital is Mytilene from
where all roads radiate to the island's town and
villages.
HISTORY.
The island's privileged position, in conjunction
with its exceptional geomorphology and natural
environment, determined its fate throughout the
centuries. It was first inhabited in prehistoric times
(3000 BC and in circa 1000 BC Aeolian colonisers settled
here, establishing several important cities - Mytilene,
Methymna, Eressos, Antissa, Pyrra, Arisbe. Antissa was
laid waste by the Romands in 168 BC, Pyrra's declinne
had already set in in Hellenistic times and Arisbe was
destroyed quite early. Home of poets, phlosophers,
historians and musicians (Pittakos, Theophrastus, Sappho
Alkaios, Arion), Lesbos attained its zenith between the
7th and 6th century BC. It was captured by the Persians,
joined the Athenian League for a short period and then
passed in turn to the Macedonians, Ptolemies and Romans.
in the Byzantine era it belonged to the Thema of the
Aegean and was continually harassed by pirates. After
the sacking of Constantinople by the Franks it belonged
to the Latin Empire of Constantinople until 1247. In
1344 the emperor John Palaeologus ceded it to the
Genoese. It was ruled by the Gatelousi family and
experienced a second period of acme without losing its
Byzantine character. From 1462 until the 1821 War of
Independence it was occupied by the Turks. Liberated in
1912 it was immediately incorporated in the Greek state.
Just 10 years later (1922) refugees from the disastrous
Asia Minor campaign flocked here in their thousands and
many settled. Even in modern times art and literature
continued to flourish on Lesbos and it was the
birthplace of several outstanding Greek painters and men
of letters (Myrivilis, Venezis, Eftaliotis, Elytis,
Theophilos).
 SIGHTS-MONUMENTS.
The island's capital, Mytilene, is built on the
incredibly beautiful wooded slopes of a hill, the trees
reaching down to the seashore. The mass of its castle
and the large statue of liberty on the quay are the
dominant features. it is an amalgam of quaint old
houses, multi-storeyed buildings and Neoclassical
mansions (Pyrgelia), interspersed with squares and
paarks. In the old part of town the streets are narrow,
the houses low and the castle looms large over them and
the market. The impressive castle, which stands on the
site of the ancient acropolis, was originally built by
the Byzantines and subsequently rebuilt by Francesco
Gatelouzos in 1373. Nowadays it is one of the largest
extant castles in the Mediterranean and one of the best
preserved in Greece. Directly opposite the castle is the
ancient theatre, dating from Hellenistic times. Very
near the theatre are the ruins of a Roman villa in which
3th century AD mosaics were discovered, with scenes from
the comedies of menander. north of the teathre sections
of the polygonal fortification wall of the Classical
period are preserved. There are also remnants of the
Classical, Hellenistic and Roman cemeteries. Other
places worth visiting include the Turkish hamam
(bathhouse in the market) maintained by the
municipaality, churches and museums. The most important
churches include St. Athanasios (1894) in the town
centre and St. Therapon (cathedral) with its eraborately
carved wooden iconostastis. In the Archaeological
Museum, near the statue of Liberty, finds from
excavations in various parts of the island are
displayed, as well the mosaics from "Menander's House".
The Byzantine Museum has an interesting collection of
icons and ecclesastical keimelia. In addition there are:
Folk Art Museum, Museum - Library of Modern Art, Public
Library and Lesbian House, arranged on the groung floor
of the Marika Vlachou residence. At Vareia, a suburb of
Mytilene, is the Tehophilos Museum, bequest of the
Lesbian art conoisseur Eleftheriadis (Teriade) who
promoted the work of this Greek folk artist on an
international scale. Very few notable examples of the
many mansions (late 18th - early 19th century) which
formerly embellished the town have survived. There are a
few on the outskirts, along with the towers (pyrgoi),
that is the many-storeyed fortified houses of wealthy
bourgeoisie, mainly used for summer vacations.
About 6km. north of Mytilene, at Moria, one can see the
remains of a Roman aquaduct (2nd/rd century AD). 1 km.
further on, at Pamphila are the "pyrgoi" of the Saltas
and Chatzisavvas Families) and yet another 4km. away is
Pyrgoi Thermes, so named after the man "pyrgoi" in the
area. The village of therme (11 km. from Mytilene) takes
its name from the thermal springs there. Inhabited since
ancient times, excavations have furnished evidence that
Artemis Thermisia was worshipped here. Archaeologists
have uncoveered an Early Bronze Age installation (circa
3000-2000 BC), finds from which are on display in the
Mytilene museum. The byzantine church of the Virgin
Tourloti, built in the 9th or 11th century, also merits
a visit. 37km. northwest of Mytilene is Mmantamados
where there is a monastery of the Txiarchs (18th/ 19th
century) which possesses a rare relief icon of the
Archangel Michael. Mantamados is well-known on account
of the tradition in pottery making which is still very
much alive today. At Aspropotamos, southeast of
Manatamados, is the Byzantine church of St. Stephen, the
second on Lesbos. Further north, in the Sarakina valley,
are the remains of a medieval casstle and beyond here,
at Palaiokastro, near the village of Kleo * 6km.) is a
ruinedByzantine watch-tower. On the northeast edge of
Mytilene is Aghia Paraskevi where there is a Sunday
after easter the renowned "feast of the bull" is held
here, lasting for three days andincluding horse races,
the slaughter of a bull and the distribution of the meat
"keskeri" to the region of Mesa where there were
sanctuaries of Zeus, Hera Dionysos. The foundations of
the Great temple (4th century BC) still exist, along
with isolated fragments of marble from the coumns and
pediments. At Klopedi there are traces of the Archaic
temple of Apollo, while at Chalinadou an early Christian
church of St. Paraskevi has been excavated. there is a
medieval building at Gefyra Kremasti and, to the south,
at Achladeri, lie the ruins of ancient Pyrra which was
gradually abandoned in Hellenistic times. Finds from
here can be seen in the Archaeological Museum. Northwest
of Aghia Paraskevi is Petra (55 km. from Mytilene),
built in a beautiful setting on the creek of a large,
sandy bay. Here one should visit the mansion of the
Varelitzidaina family, one of the most significant
residences on the island, richly decorated and
embellished with murals, as well as the churches ofSt.
Nicholas (16th century) and the Virgin of Tenderness,
built on a rocky eminence 27 m. high, from where there
is a wonderful view. 7k. north of Petra is Methymna, one
of the most important cities on the island in ancient
times. It is also known as Molyvos, the name given it in
the Middle Ages and in order to reach it one must cross
the plain of Kaaloni, perhaps the most beautiful region
on Lesbos. There has been habitation here since
Neolithic times and a significant civillisation
developed during the Bronze Age (2800-1100 BC). Cultural
advancement continued up until the Roman period, which
heralded its decline. When Molyvos was taken by the
Gatelouzi family in 1355 it experienced a new floriuit.
Remnants of the fortification wall of ancient Methymna,
originally 2900 m. long, have survived, along with the
ancient aquaduct and ruins of an Archaic temple. Finds
from the area are housed in the Town Hall. Methymna
forms a crescent around the central nucleus of its
castle. the streets are narrow, the houses high, and
though there are almost no squares, there are numerous
fountains decorated in relief and, or course, churches.
the most noteworthy ones are that of the Taxiarch (built
1795) and St. Panteleimon (1844). There are also several
Neoclassical houses and mansions at Molyvos, including
some in excellent condition, such as the Yannakos
mansion with its elaborately carved wooden ceilings and
that of the Kralli family. Molyvos is a scheduled
village. The summer courses of the University Schol of
Fine Arts are held here. Since 1981 there has been an
Art Gallery in the village. Argyris Eftalios' home was
in Molyvos, his tom is in the nearby village of Eftalou
(3km. south). Not only is Eftalou one of the loveliest
bays on Lesbos, there is a radioactive spring there.
South of MEthymna is Kalloni (40 km. northest of
Mytilene), also an important city in ancient times
where, apart from the ruins of ancient and Byzantine
edifices, ruins of a temple and castleon the height of
Xirokastro, south of thetownare preerved. The sheltered
bay of Kalloni and its environs is one of the prettiest
parts of theisland. 5km. northwest of here is the
Leimona monastery, founded in the 15th century and
housing a veritable treasury of precious manuscripts,
icons and uniquely valuable items of folk art. The
Byzantine convent of Myrsiniotissa, established in the
12th century, is situated 3km to the north. Atissa (73
km. from Mytilene) bears the same name as the ancient
city destroyed by the Romans in 168 BC. Excavations have
brought to light the remants of a sacntuary of Geometric
times (9th century BC). 3 km. east of Antissa is the
Perivoli monastery in the katholikon of which are 16th
century wall paintings and valuable icons, west of
Antissa, on mount Ordymnos (511 m.a.s.l.), is the
important nunnery of Ypsilos, founded, according to
tradition, in the 9th/11th century, in which there is a
small museum of icons, manuscripts and embroideries.
Other features of interset in the Antissa region include
the vestiges of the ancient city wall near the shore and
the ruins of a medieval castle. South of Antissa (88 km.
from Mytilene) is Eressos and 4km. further south is its
port, Skala Eressos and which has a wonderful beach of
golden sand and crystal clear sea. Ruins of ancient
Eressos (sections of the polygonal wall) are preserved
in teh vicinity of the harbour and there are ruins of
Byzantine defenses (towers) on the summit of the hill.
The small museum next to the church of St. Andrew is
worth a visit since it houses finds from tombs in the
ancient cemetery and Early Christian atefacts. The
excavated Early Christian church, a basilica, north of
Skala Eressos, at Afentelli, dating from the second half
of the 5th century AD.From Eressos one can visit the
Pytharios monastery and Palaiokastro with itss medieval
ruins, Sigri (15km. north of Eressos, built around a
lovely cove, rather reminiscent of Cycladic scenery. At
the water's edge ar the remants of atiny castle of
Turkish times. Sigri is famous for its petrified forest,
that is fossilised tree truniks covered by volcanic
material over a million years ago. Similar petrfied
vegetation can be seen on the islet of Nisiopi.
From Mytilene one can visit regions to the west and
south, around the gulf of Geras, where there are many
towns and villages. One of the most picturesque of these
is Ayasos (28 km. from Mytilene), built
amphittheatrically on the lowerslopes of mount Olymbos.
Local traditions are fervently adhered to here and
attractive ceramics are produced. One should visit the
19th century church of the Virgin, its feast day,
celebrated on the 15th August is the largest on the
island and lasts three days. There is a small museum of
icons and ecclesiastical plate adjacent to the church.
Yet another charming town is Polychnitos (45 km. West of
Mytilene), a caolescence of several small hamlets built
on an eminence with a splendid view of the Aegean and
the bay of Kalloni. Plomari (50km. southwest of Mytilene)
was originally a quanit little fishing village which has
developed into an attriactive town with well-ordered
street system and several parks, very popular with
tourists. Of especial interest is the village of Vrissa
(53km. southwest of Mytilene) with is old houses and
cobbled streets. From Vatera (3km. south), the harbour
of Vrissa, one can go to cape Aghios Phokas where,
beside the church, there are the ruins of the ancient
temple of Dionysos, worshipped here in a major sanctuary
(1st century BC). Among the features of interest on
Lesbos the marble foundtains in the villages,
frrequently carved with relief decoration, deserve
mention.
There is
no problem about where to sim on Lesbos with its
seemingly endless beaches, all of which can be reached
by bus or caique. There are lovely stretches of sand to
the north of Mytilene, as fas Skala Mistegnon, as also
at Aghios Ermogenis, which can be reached from Loutra,
Methymna, Eftalou, Skala Kallonis. Some of the best
beachecs are at Skala Aspropotamos, Petra and elsewhere.
All are excellent for fishing and sea sports also. In
the island's interior one can mountaineer or shoot
pensions, rooms and apartments for rent, bot h in the
capital and in its town and villages, where one gaina
more authentic picture of island life.
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